August 09  - FIESTAS

When I began this diary, I said that not very much happens in this hidden corner of Spain, and that is why my accounts of life here are very, very occasional. However, August is different, because the families gather here from all parts of Spain, to enjoy and celebrate the fiestas.

First was our local Barranco de Quiles Fiesta – the smallest but friendliest fiesta, I think! It followed much of the format of previous years – a procession of the ‘Madonna’ on Saturday afternoon, refreshments, games for children and adults, singing and dancing, bridge tournament, paella and more singing and dancing until events were brought to a slightly premature end on Sunday evening by an incredible thunderstorm!

The few British around here made their own contribution to the festivities. Pip and Dave brought toffee apples on sticks that bemused our Spanish friends, until they learnt that they didn’t need a knife and fork, but could be eaten from the hand; and. Laurie brought along some face paints, and delighted children and adults alike with his skilfully crafted designs.

The mujeres of Los Cerricos came to entertain with displays of Sevilliana dancing, complete with castanets and fans. Among these were four mujeres britanicos, Heather, Frankie, Chris and Brenda who had been learning and practising hard since September to be able to take part, and all agreed that the rumba they performed was the highlight of the display. 

Further dancing displays were given at the Fiestas of Los Cerricos, where the women all wore stunning new dresses, and at Oria, where they performed before an audience of over 500 people who were amazed to see four striking blonde women performing so expertly – so much so, that the regional paper ‘IDEAL’ made it a key element of its reporting of events!

I also need to tell you about ‘el torneo de las cintas’, at Los Cerricos. This involved all the local boys assembling on their odd assortment of motorbikes, and one by one slowly proceeding down the street, where a line of rolled up ribbons was hung across it. Here, they had to stand up, and try to catch a small loop on the ribbon roll, with the ballpoint pen they had been supplied with for that purpose! If successful, a brightly coloured ribbon would stream behind them. Then the master of ceremonies, an elderly man in a trilby hat and walking stick, would halt proceedings, while he selected a young girl to present the ribbon to the successful ‘knight’, complete with a kiss. He must have been really perceptive, because Cerys our young guest, had been shyly eyeing a handsome young man on a green bike all night, and much to her delight, he immediately selected her for the task.

       

March    -  candles and sticks

 It's early morning, though the spring sunshine is now beginning to be pleasantly warm. I've been up to the high almond fields with the dogs. They love to forage for the remains of last years crop, and the crunch of shells echoes their success. The blossom of the almonds has been scenting the air for several weeks now, but somehow the bitter almond trees seem to flower later, and are vibrant pink against the blue sky and the profile of the high crags. The song of larks breaks the silence, and in the distance an early cuckoo calls. Typically, at this time of year a mist hangs in the barranco, and it gives a surreal vista to the local mountains, and those cut through by more distant misty valleys.

Near the end of the excursion, I share a 'mandarina' with the dogs. Then I hear laughter from the road. Catalina too is walking her dogs. At 70+ years she has walked 3 kilometres including a very steep slope, and has a couple more kilometres to complete, but she has the energy to berate me for 'spoiling' my dogs - "they don't need a breakfast and certainly not oranges!!

In one hand she clutches an old olive bow, in the other a large sprig of thyme. She explains that thyme is a really good to aid digestion. We chat some more! I tell her I've been up to the high slopes and it's very beautiful. She knows! When she was young she spent many days in the mountains - gathering rosemary, lavender and thyme to sell in the market; and collecting almond branches for firewood. There was no electricity then! And no butane gas either! All we had were candles and sticks - and most times only sticks!

 January

 Well! The Barranco has experienced a very rare sight.

A snowplough!

It snowed all afternoon and all night too, and in the morning everywhere was white! Nearly 25cm of snow lay on the road to Oria, and when I took the dogs out onto the fields (Millie the husky just loved it) the wind was moving it into drifts. However, by now the sky was clear - azure blue against the snow draped mountains.

We heard it before we saw it! And then it appeared, chugging along as it pushed the snow to the side of the road, followed by the car of our neighbours Wendy and Laurie, who had spent an uncomfortable night stranded on the road to Chirivel!

December 1st  - Castanets!

Heather is learning how to do Sevillian dancing. Folk dancing with more than a hint of flamenco, complete with castanets.  They are planning to put on a display at next years fiesta - but that will be another story!

The other morning our neighbour Katty called by for a chat and a coffee. Seeing the castanets, Katty set about tapping out a rhythm, and treated us to a sad lament about walking out with her lost boyfriend.

November - Porkies!

One fine afternoon in early November, Millie( our husky/collie pup) and I set off down the rambla, until we came to a camino that ascended up through the pine forest. The views of the 'Marias', mountains even higher than ours, 15 kilometres to the west, were amazing. This would be the place for a perfect sunset!

We continued up the path and eventually stopped for a drink of water. I could sense that Millie was not at ease. She glanced nervously around as she sipped water from my cupped hands. Then 15 metres ahead, a large wild pig crossed the path, soon followed by a piglet! Wow!

October - Evaristo 

The little town of Chirivel has a lively Friday morning market. It extends 400 metres down the street to the meat and fish market. Along the way there are clothes stalls; household goods; shoes; fruit and vegetables; sweets and nuts; cheeses and cooked meats; jewellery; leather goods and plants. The basting chickens on the mobile rotisserie appertise the air. For me, best of all is the 'churro' stall. Batter fritters are plunged from a gigantic wooden 'icing' nozzle into a great basin of hot olive oil. They sizzle for a couple of minutes, before being cut into bite size pieces, and served in paper bags sprinkled with sugar.

Last week I was enjoying the atmosphere of the place when an older Spanish man, complete with black beret and a friendly twinkle in his eye approached me. In Spanish he asked me where I came from - "Good Morning", he said when he learnt I was British. …. "And where do you live", he continued in Spanish. I told him that I lived in Barranco de Quiles. "Oh you are very lucky", he said. " You live in a green paradise. You always have water" As indeed we do! The barranco is blessed with many balsas and fuentas, and the valley is green with the production of vegetables, in the little fields for much of the year.

He went on to tell me that throughout his life he had been an artisan - able to make all kinds of articles by hand. He showed me the beautiful hand made shoes he was wearing, and asked if I wanted to see more. We went into his house, off the main market street. Here I was amazed by his artistry and craft. There were leather jackets, turned wooden bowls, woven grass ornaments, more shoes and paintings. Truly amazing skill! If you want to see more take a look at Everisto's web site

http://www.ual.es/personal/ramon

 

October

 As the year turns, the sun is starting to rise later, and its rose tinted rays, often accompany my early morning walk in the 'rambla'. This morning, I met Catalina, walking her dog Tina. With one hand, she was dragging a pine tree branch that was dripping with cones, and in the other she held a plastic carrier bag.

She told me that soon we would need to light fires in the evening, because it was definitely getting cooler, and that pine wood and its cones were particularly good for starting the fire well. The 'rambla' is a good source of firewood, especially kindling, that blows from the down from the prolific birch trees and occasional pines. Olive, almond and chestnut are better for keeping a fire going though!

I asked Catty what she had in her bag. With a happy smile she showed me that as well as foraging for wood she had found her breakfast too - wild mushrooms, "that were best fried"!

26th March - Poor Kid! 

Andre comes down the camino by our casa accompanied by his small group of sheep and goats (are they a flock or a herd?), and his two dogs - los dos amigos! He takes them all down - kids and lambs frolicking together - to one of his small fields, and leaning on a tree stump settles to letting them forage and graze. He seems to be enjoying the warm sunshine and the countryside, and I can see him carefully studying the condition of his animals, that he controls, mainly with a deep guttural 'trill' noise - and just occasionally, a thrown stick or stone, when the goats forage where they shouldn't - like on Merito's vines, or Jose's young olive trees! But it is clear that Andre really cares for his animals. He seems quite happy to lean against a tree for a couple of hours, watching the animals feed, and youngest of his dogs teasing the Billy goat, who chases it off with aggressive butts! The young dog loves it, but its older companion seeing that everything is under control, has got bored with proceedings, and thinking that Andre isn't looking, has sloped off back to the casa for an early siesta! It's also clear that to see, that within the flock/herd, it's the sheep that are dominant, threatening the goats that get in the way of their grazing.

Some time later I can hear him returning to the gentle chime of the collar bells, "Hola Pedro" he calls, "como estas"? "Bien", I reply, and you? I tell him that I think his animals look good and well - yes he agrees - very good to eat!

Sure enough, the next day the butcher's lorry pulls up outside Andre's casa! A couple of fit young male lambs and kids have been selected and are carried from their pen.

"Si, muy bien a comer"!  "Yes,very good to eat"!

20th March -  Primavera 

For several weeks we have enjoyed bright sunny weather. The spectacular almond blossom of February has been replaced by the lime green of new foliage, though the apricot trees and cherries are still in full bloom. Honey bees swarm over the flowers of the mint bush, and today I have seen my first poppy of the year. Soon the roadsides will be a riot of spring flowers and I am looking forward to taking a steep hike to the mountain tops to see the alpine meadows in full bloom.

My neighbour Mel arrived this morning with a dozen eggs - his poultry have started to lay again - so we will have omelettes for breakfast , made from bantams and peacock (pavo real) eggs!

Another neighbour Laurie tells me that he has heard his first cuckoo of the year, and today I saw my first swallows of the season. I'm looking forward to the nightingales, bee eaters and golden orioles arriving too - but not just yet!

Spring is certainly here, and the sap is rising!

Miguel is around 70 years and lives down the Barranco at the small hamlet of Daimuz. Yesterday, I saw him trip up the camino mounted on his sprightly donkey, following the track around, until he arrived at Sandra's casa, who lives a couple of hundred metres across the valley from us, with her daughter and grand daughter. He jumped down from the donkey and started to examine all around - the vegetable garden; the fruit trees; the new stone wall and  the olive grove - examining and inspecting everything. I thought I'd better telephone Sandra to let her know she had a visitor, who hadn't yet presented himself to the front door!

A little later I received a whispered response, - I'm hiding in the loo! Has he gone yet?

An hour passed before a despondent Miguel trudged back down the camino on his donkey, leaving a box of biscuits fastened to the latch of the gate.

Indeed sap is rising in the Barranco!

7th February -   Close encounter with 'los zorros'

 I went for a walk in the hills the other day. Going down the camino I was surprised by a silver grey fox crossing my path. Just a few steps later I heard a 'squawking' noise coming from the small field. Two more young foxes were squabbling over a mouse that one had caught. They chased around the field until the fox that was chasing, spotted me. He quickly slunk off to hide, and the other enjoyed the respite and polished off the poor mouse! Then, hunger satisfied, he jumped into the camino and to my surprise trotted down it towards me where I was standing quietly by a tree. As he drew alongside he suddenly sensed my presence and with a little scream of great shock bounded up the hill into wood.

Pedro

28^th January - the first signs of spring

The almond blossom is starting to form on the many thousands of almond trees that cover the hills and mountains of this part of Spain. Soon the countryside will be a haze of pink and white and the fragrance of the flowers will fill the air, attracting the honey bees to swarm over them.

This morning, I could hear Andre busy with his mattock creating dams and sluices to direct his water around his plants. For the first time since the early autumn the barranco echoed to the sound of rushing water in the acequias - another first sign of the annual process of renewal and growth. A heavy frost lay shimmering in the bright early morning sunlight, and even though there is probably some more winter to come - our neighbours are starting to prepare their fields for the succession of crops they grow - lettuce, tomatoes, beans, peppers, onions, garlic, potatoes and sweet corn. For the past couple of weeks they have been creating raised furrows in their small fields surrounded with channels to receive the irrigation water.

Juanna and Anna have already planted their first crops in the rich brown tilth that the family have been tending and improving for generations. The cultivation skills, warm sunlight and abundant water fed to the land along the acequias from the balsas will ensure a good crop throughout the year.

27^th January - a present from Pedro 

The barranco has two goat herders, Andre and Pedro, who can be seen every day leading their flocks to graze small pasture areas, assisted by their enthusiastic dogs. Pedro was just returning with his flock as we were passing his casa. He called me over and beckoned me to stoop low through the doorway to pass inside one of the small farms' outbuildings.

Proudly, he showed me the beautifully crafted pair of miniature shoes and a tiny basket that he had made from special long grasses collected from the mountainside. He explained that they were for good luck and that I had to hang them from the mirror of my car. He further explained that to make the objects he first plaited lengths of grass together, and then weaved the grass. He  had made all kinds of objects including, large baskets, bottle holders, ornamental donkeys complete with saddles and panniers and also an adult size version of the shoes that he had given me, soled with rubber from an old tyre. He said that these were the only shoes people had to wear, not so long ago!

The outhouse was a treasure trove of tools and implements from the countryside. Sieves for locally ground flour to make bread and migas (a staple food of flour and olive oil); olive rakes; a small soil riddling plough; forks; mattocks - and hanging from the ceiling, two large jamons from the freshly killed pig!

8th January 08    Felices Fiestas

 The Christmas lights were strung up across the road of Oria village on the 21^st December! No need to rush things here! They were accompanied by loud speakers that loudly played tapes of children's choirs singing jolly festive songs.

 Talking of choirs; on the 23^rd December, every one eagerly listened in to the Cathedral Choir Boys singing the winning numbers of the, the big Christmas lottery, 'el Gordo' - 'the fat one'!

 We went to see the nativity scene in the nearby town that was so big that it occupies the whole of a huge marquee erected outside the Church. Besides the traditional nativity scenes of 'Wise Men', shepherds, angels and stables there was a whole scene of biblical life - farmers; bakers; potters; joiners; children playing, women cleaning, and all performing elaborate mechanised actions. There was even - how can I say this delicately - a man squatting behind a bush, going to the toilet!! Why I'm not sure, but you will be relieved to learn that he wasn't 'mechanised'!!

 Christmas Eve - 'Nochebuena' was a time for family gatherings and special meals, and for some children Papa Noel paid a visit!

 'La Noche Viaja' - News Year Eve, was a bigger celebration. Hotels and restaurants held big gala dinners and parties lasting into the small hours of the morning. In the village square, people gathered to celebrate the New Year. At midnight as each bell chimed people took another grape in a desperate attempt to swallow them all before the last chime, and then toasted each other with cava. An enterprising supermarket was selling plastic cava glasses filled with twelve grapes!

 And then everything continued as normal. The big sales started in the large shopping centres of the cities, and the olive harvest continued in the Barranco. I went to help Mel gather some of his - he has over a hundred trees and this year has been a very good crop. Paquo, another friend was there to help him too. Mel and Paquo couldn't agree on the best way to collect the juicy black olives onto the nets spread below the trees. Mel favoured a large plastic rake - he claimed that it dislodged fewer olive leaves that later needed cleaning from the crop, than Paqco's more direct approach of beating the branches with a large stick. I actually favoured pulling the strings of olives with my hands, but I always had to watch what Pacquo was doing with his stick because I was likely to end up with broken fingures!!

 Mel will take his sacks of olives down to the local olive mill where they will go through a giant press and you can then collect your oil - the first press - which has a slightly green shade to it, in large plastic bottles. Mel is expecting many litres of oil and no doubt some will come my way!

 And then, on the 6^th January everything stopped again for Christmas! Los Tres Reyes - the 'Three Wise Men' had arrived bearing gifts. There was a horseback procession of the three kings through town, and bags of 'carbon del Reyes' - a sweet like black cinder toffee - was thrown to the children who scattered to claim their share. Then, it was back home for more family celebrations and present giving!

 ….and now as we continue into January the olive harvest carries on - black berries for the olive mill, leafy branches for the goats and olive logs for next years fire! 

 

7th December   Sausages!!!

The weather has been fine and warm in this part of Spain. Yesterday was a national holiday - a fiesta day, and many people in the Barranco had family visiting, to help them with the seasonal work of preparing for winter.

The hum of chain saws cutting logs for the fire echoes around the valley. Juana- Marie has prepared her small fields with small earth walls to receive irrigation in the spring and then spread hay over them to protect seedlings and keep the soil warm. It is also the time of the olive harvest. This year has given a very good crop - unlike the almonds and apricots - and everyone is helping to pick them. Excited parties of children and youths in trailers pulled by tractors, head down to the olive groves. Nets are spread on the ground around the trees, and then the branches are knocked with sticks to dislodge the fruit. This will be taken to the local mill and pressed for its oil. Once the harvest is done, Andre takes the opportunity to cut leafy branches and carry them home piled high on the roof of his old red Renault 4, to feed to his goats.

 At the fuenta I saw Isobel and some of the other local women, working at something in a variety of plastic bowls. They had cut oranges and lemons, salt and buckets of water and were busily rinsing with plenty of water changes, that were sometimes aimed at 'Blanca', Katalina's dog who was also very interested in proceedings! The something turned out to be intestine of pig, and the oranges and salt were good cleaning agents, so that they could be filled to make chorizo sausages. The 'annual' pig raised on the little farm, had just been killed, and nothing would be wasted. Jamons, black pudding, and sausages - to last throughout the year.

25^th October Eagles and Sea 

Pete, my latest visitor, is a keen walker. We spotted a route up the mountain to the north east of our Casa. After a short stroll down the 'rambla', we started to ascend the rocky spur that would take us up 400 metres to an altitude of nearly 1300 metres. What sights we would see from there!

In spring the mountain slopes resemble an alpine meadow, but now they are covered in purple lavender. Its sweet scent followed us for the entire walk, and we were accompanied by the hum of honeybees, busily working the flowers, even at this altitude and so late in the year. A falcon swooped past, but perhaps even more impressive was the glint of sunshine on the Mediterranean, visible beyond other lower sierras, 25 kilometres away as the falcon flies!

 I have never looked down on an eagle before, but today, we spotted one slowly circling with deep wing beats, above the summit of a neighbouring lesser peak. It must have spotted us, because it moved off down the 'rambla', only to reappear minutes later, no more than 20 metres above our heads, using the strong wind on its huge wings like a kite, to hover there for a couple of minutes. Very clearly, we could see the marking of the golden eagle, the fronds at the ends of its broad wings and the wedge shaped tail. It seemed to look disdainfully down us, as if rebuking us for having the nerve to look down on it!

 It is always a joy to see an eagle in the barranco, but I fear that after today's experience, it will never quite be the same.

4th October - a trip to the blacksmith

We've recently installed a 'deposito' - an independent water supply for the Casa, if the mains water fails. However, like most 'insurance', once you've paid the premium, you seldom get the opportunity to claim!

Our 'deposito' is a 1500 litre tank that should keep us supplied with water for a week. However, it was sold to us at the price of a 2000 litre tank. I had an interesting time with Oprey at the builders merchants, explaining to him in Spanish, that the volume of a cylinder is Pi x Radius squared x height, and that I had been overcharged!

 Now though we needed a top for the small casita that I had built to house the 'deposito' pump. I went to go down to Oria, our small local town - little more than a village even though it has got 2 discos and 2 banks! - to talk to the blacksmith. On the way I saw Pepe, owner of the first bar/ restaurant talking to one of his neighbours, near the development of some new 3 storey flats.

 I explained to the blacksmith what I needed, and fully expected a 'mañana' reply - but no - he picked up a sheet of metal -"is this ok?" - measured it, cut it to size with a giant guillotine, drilled holes and fixed the hinges and hasp. While all this was going on, some of his friends dropped in, studying the cutting gear; the anvils; the welding equipment and the work in progress - plough shares, railings and almond 'shakers', a priority job because the harvest was in full flow. Into the workshop came the lottery seller to make a few sales, and then everyone started to look at the massive lorry, that had created a blockage on the roundabout into the town. He was on his CB radio, with a knowing smile communicating with another 'good buddy'. Sure enough, a couple of minutes later, an equally massive marble lorry appeared from the opposite direction of the too narrow streets of Oria town. The lorry drivers exchanged greetings and moved on in their respective directions.

 Then the huge crane from the new flats development swung across two streets to near Pepe's restaurant . A red plastic bucket was suspended from the giant hook. Slowly it was lowered, and at the third attempt Pepe grasped the bucket. Then he waved the paper taken from the bucket, to the cheering men in the scaffolding - the lunch time order has been delivered!

 So, how much was my casita top? Complete with hinges and hasp - 7 euros with entertainment thrown in for free!


12^th September Harvest

Our neighbour Jose strode purposefully down the hillside, closely followed by his little dog 'Coco'. Then, a couple of hours later, he returned by our casa, with a large sack of almonds over his shoulder.

The delicately coloured almond blossom of February, that stretches for miles over the hillsides, had turned to fruit and ripened over the hot summer. The almonds are the main crop of this area, because of their tolerance of dry conditions, and the ability to survive winter frosts! Tractors now harvest the large estates mechanically, with huge umbrella like contraptions that wrap themselves around the tree, and shake the almonds into a hopper. But all the locals own a small wood of almond trees, and even we have a few! These are collected by hand and then they use a noisy machine to de-husk the green skins from around the shells. Nothing is wasted, as the husks are saved as winter fodder for the goats, or dried and used as fire kindling. Piles of drying almonds can be seen spread outside every home - except for Andre - who ingeniously uses the heat from his corrugated iron garage roof to dry his. Andre also has strings of red peppers, hanging from the walls of his house to provide flavour and colour to winter stews. On a wide stone outside his house, he dries their seed for next years crop.

The figs are ripening - dark purple or subtle yellow depending on the variety - and the birds are 'making hay'! Soon they will collect the olives.

Even as I type, I can hear the small 'hand ploughs', preparing the small terraced strips of land for next springs bounty of potatoes and beans.

 

9^th September Saliente

I love sitting out late in the warm evening. As ever the dark mountains surround us. Few sounds break the peace of the night. Then, at the crown of the hill, dancing torchlights appear along the narrow road. Soon, I can hear excited voices chattering and laughing in the darkness. The small group come down the dark lane, and disappear on round the bend. Then another group of people come along: then another: and another, and soon the barranco is filled with the sounds of people expecting a party!

The fireworks they light erupt the peace of the night - huge explosions!

These are the pilgrims heading off to the mountain top monastery and church at Saliente, which at 1501 metres is the highest mountain near us.

Each year, many 100's of people assemble in the bars of the surrounding towns and villages, discussing their strategies for the long nighttime walk, and taking the refreshment to help them achieve their goal! Then they all converge on the beautiful 18^th century mountain top church, which has been declared a monument of artistic and historical importance to celebrate in honour of the 'Virgen of Saliente'. They are joined many 1000's of other pilgrims who arrive by car, and then undertake a shorter pilgrimage up the steep path, to lay their bouquets of flowers at the alter. An incredible sight!

29th August - Moon Bathing

 It was 10pm and still warm. The cicadas were murmuring rather than chattering and all that disturbed the night was the occasional plaintive "keooo" of the little owl.

 The bowl of mountains that seem to surround the Casa were silhouetted against a deep purple sky. Cassiopeia was clearly visible to the north, and a thin shooting star streaked across towards the east. Then a dull glow appeared behind the highest ridge, that intensified quickly, and then soon emerged, as a perfect full moon. The silver light illuminated the entire valley, throwing strange shadows across the land, and highlighting the white washed farm-houses scattered around.

 …..and then the wolf started howling, a deep low moan, that set all the local farm dogs off, in a chorus of bravado.

Pedro

13th August - phew!!

Well, the fiesta has gone pretty much as expected. I survived, and have eventually recovered! I also cleared up the mystery of why I found a small screw in my trouser pocket …………

 The young people who made up the bugles and drums band slowly and mainly irreverently, followed the procession of the Virgin, who was installed on an 'alter' decorated with lilies, up the hot and dusty camino to the fuenta.

Everyone, gathered under the large make shift pergola that provided much needed shade, and very soon a very fruity and very alcoholic drink was being served, accompanied by a pizza and a very delicious tuna and tomato pie.

Dave, one of our English neighbours had made 50 delicious toffee apples. Our Spanish friends had not sampled these before, but they were really well received, and several people came to find out about the recipe.

Then soon the games began. Egg and spoon race with real eggs! The local dogs particularly enjoyed this event, greedily licking up all the spilling! 'Tug of War' and sack races. The adult race was keenly contested, as the prize was a whole 'jamon'. The highlight for the children was the competition that involved stringing earthenware pots filled with sweets, trinkets or money across the road. The children lined up excitedly, waiting for their turn to have a bucket placed on their head, and a chance to break a pot with a large stick, so that they could collect its rewards. Once the whole string of pots had to be lifted with props to allow a car from a neighbouring hamlet pass on up the road Oria.

Then the music began. Maria quickly passed around the Fiesta distributing small 'bolts' to the all the men, and 'nuts' to the women. We were then encouraged to seek out our match - the person whose nut would be the right size for our screw! The Latin beat, quickly persuaded everyone to find partners and dance the night away in the street. At 2am someone produced a broom and a dancing competition involving the passing on of the broom (like pass the parcel) took place, with bottles of whiskey for the surviving couple!

 I must confess, I did not stay for chocolate and cakes. Nor did I see the bike riders - though I did hear them from my bed, as they departed to bell ringing down the road. However, I did make it to see the end of the playing cards competition, so that I would be in time for the paella that was cooked on an open log fire in a 1.5metre diameter dish. Rice, chicken, rabbit, beans and red pepper. David, the assistant chef pronounced it "muy guappa" and it was.

The rest of the day was about eating, drinking and dancing! It's tough but someone has to do it!

Pedro

9th August - two days to go!

The Barranco is only a small hamlet with perhaps 40 households scattered over both sides of the valley, between the olive and almond groves, and the little vegetable gardens…. and so our Fiesta will not be as large or extravagant as the grand affairs held in the towns or larger villages, but what it lacks in size, it more than makes up with enthusiasm!

 I've had another look at the fiesta  programme  pasted up on the post box near the fuenta. I'm not quite sure what every event is - some of the meanings get lost in translation, and even my foot thick Oxford dictionary can't cope - but I can see that it all begins with a short religious service in the small chapel down the camino at 5pm Saturday, and finishes with paella and Jarritta's singing entertainment, sometime Sunday night!

Sleeping between 6am and 9.30am Sunday morning is optional!

We have a sacred procession with a band of bugles and drums, and more prayers at the Fuenta to where the "virgen de Fatima", is returned, to safe guard the water supply!
Drinks and refreshments:
A handicrafts workshop:
Games with prizes and surprises for young and old:
More drinks and refreshments:
Dancing to the "Trio Bossonova".
More dancing, 'de la escoba' - this is intriguing because 'escoba' translates as 'broom', but an 'escabillado' is the name given to a shuffle step used in a folk dance - which is most likely because a bit of shuffling is all I will be capable off, until chocolate and cake is served at 5am!!!

But there is little time for sleep because the whist drive starts at 10am and the 30 kilometre bike ride over the mountains at eleven!

Roll on the paella!

When I recover, I'll tell you more about what really happened.

Pedro

31st July  - "Twitching"

Our friend Ann has been to visit this week. She has turned out to be an expert eagle spotter. We've seen a few golden eagles over the last couple of years, but it seems that every time she glances to the skies she spots one.

This morning she was floating in the pool, and another one started to collect the thermals coming off the mountain above. It circled slowly gaining height; sometimes flying over the ridge out of sight; and then it spiralled up to an amazing height before heading north to towards the mountains of Santa Maria!

No one could ever call me a 'twitcher'. I am interested in the nature around me, but most of the birds I see go unrecognised. Especially, the little brown ones that aren't sparrows and fly fast!

However, this year we have seen some birds that everyone can recognise and enjoy. We knew it was spring when the bee eaters arrived -azure and bronze perching all along the telephone wires. Rollers - big and spectacularly blue. Hoopoes with their amazing crests and little owls perched along the road-side. Perhaps best of all are the golden orioles that I disturb from the fig tree when I go to the fuenta, and give pleasure to all as they seek their next perch.

………..and speaking of the fuenta, a new poster has been 'posted' there giving details of the FIESTA!!.
I think the 'we' are really going for it this year… and I may well need my full siesta on Thursday and Friday, if I am going to survive Saturday!

 Pedro

26th July 2007

It's another sunny and hot day, but Mel is busy at mixing cement and wheeling it down to repair the balsa wall at one of the 'fuenta' springs in the lower part of the Barranco.

The 'balsas' are very important to local people. The water needed to irrigate the small 'huertas' (vegetable gardens) is in short supply, and the water flowing from the fuentas is collected in the concrete balsas so that it can be released and used as required.

It is a common sight to see Merito, Andre or Catalina, mattock over their shoulder, moving across the hillsides to create or open small dams in the network of 'acequias' (irrigation channels) that have been used in this way for centuries. The use of the water in this way is 'governed' by committee, and the individual plots can only be watered at certain set times on certain days. On the appointed day, water will be released to flood onto and around the small plots to give the dry earth a good soaking.

At this fuenta, a shaded washing platform has been created, that the women of the Barranco gather around to clean clothes and chat. Today, Anna - Marie is there washing curtains. Perhaps they are too bulky to go into the perfectly good washing machine I know she has, or perhaps she thought she may get the opportunity to have a chat with some of her neighbours.

I ask her about the fiesta. She tells me that is definately going to be on the 11 th August, and that we are going to have paella.

Pedro

   17^th July 2007

 

Nothing much happens in this isolated corner of Real Spain!

Each day passes, pretty much like the last.

Andre takes his goats to pasture; Merito tends to his vegetable patch, while his wife Francesca washes the steps; Catalina stops to chat with her neighbours and the sun usually shines!

But today, Merito, is busying himself with a different job. When I went down to the fuenta (spring) to replenish our drinking water, I found him between his casa and that of his neighbour the local butcher, Jose. He explained that he was making some steps so that the food and equipment needed for the Fiesta could be more easily brought down to the party area. He told me that the Fiesta was going to Catalina 30 euros as our contribution to the Fiesta. Mind you, she said it was going to be held on the 4^th August!………….and there again the publicity material put out by the Tourist Board for all the village Fiestas (there is one nearly everyday it seems) says it will be on the 10^th.

I'll let you know about it …one of these days.

 

Hasta luego

pedro 

 

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